More please! Graham reviews Taylor’s Fine Dining, Newark’s newest restaurant
Seeing such favourable reviews for Taylor’s Fine Dining we tried the ‘Express Lunch’ on Saturday – two courses for £18, three for £25.
First thing that strikes you is what a pleasant ambience has been created in a restaurant we have visited in its previous incarnations as the Danube and Trumps. Classy and restful, with an agreeable background sound of jazz piano.
The waiting staff are friendly, knowledgeable and efficient. They are also female, young and pretty but I’m not sure it’s permissible to say that any more. Seems I said it anyway.
We both chose a glass of (very agreeable) house red and two courses, starting with porchetta served with sweet potato purée, deliciously crispy crackling, a sort of confit apple and wild garlic for mains. My photo really doesn’t do justice to the dish. This was preceded by a platter of warm home-made bread – salty, soft and more-ish focaccia, a nutty brown and a white, all very good, served with home-made butter, a welcome adjunct as the main course comes with little by way of carbs or veg. But we loved the flavours coming from the porchetta and its accompaniments. A very good start.
For dessert we had panna cotta topped with a small quenelle of rich, dark chocolate mousse, a sliver of crisp meringue (billed as orange meringue but I couldn’t detect the orange element), a basil crème, fresh basil, strawberry fruit ice and slivers of fresh strawberry. It was a pretty dish and enjoyable, though we’ve seen enough Masterchef episodes to know that to get the right degree of wobble in a panna cotta is tricky for the most talented chef.
This one had a bit too much bounce to keep John Torode happy, so the result was pleasant rather than knock-out. But, alongside, unannounced on the menu, was a small cup of fresh strawberry milkshake with a semi-sphere of strawberry fruit ice. I’d no idea a milk shake could ever be this delicious. Light, creamy, wonderfully fruity. It was sensational.
Two coffees to follow – strong, black and delicious (not quite hot enough for me but they seldom are) and that came to £58 excluding tip. I thought this was exceptional value for cooking of a standard not seen in Newark for a long time, if ever.
We keenly anticipate another visit. We will probably have to book further ahead next time.